IN JUNE/JULY WE FLY TO BORDEAUX FROM WHERE WE ARE CONTEMPLATING HIRING A CAR TO TRAVEL THROUGH CENTRAL FRANCE, BASQUE SPAIN AND POSSIBLY PORTUGAL BEFORE RETURNING TO THE UK. WE HAVE 4-5 WEEKS AND PREFER THE BY-WAYS TO THE HIGHWAYS, IDEALLY LOCATING OURSELVES IN SMALLER CENTRES FOR ROUGHLY A WEEK AT A TIME AND EXPLORING. ANY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR WHERE WE CAN BASE OURSELVES, AND ANY ADVICE ON HIRING A CAR?
THE BRENNANS, SEAFORTH
The time frame for your European adventure sounds great but a week in each location will have a big impact on the amount of ground you can cover. I would imagine 3-4 nights in each stop would give you enough of time to explore the local area, with plenty of variety in your travels. From Bordeaux the obvious first stop is San Sebastian, just across the Spanish border. This city on the Bay of Biscay is foodie heaven, with a cuisine born of proximity to the sea and a long history of scraping poverty that turns even the noses of cows into a piquant dish. The Basque version of tapas, pintxos, include bite-sized snacks of tiger mussels, fried anchovies stuffed with paprika, and foie gras with figs and pressed cheese made from unpasteurised sheep milk. You might consider a food tour with Brit Jon Warren (sansebastianfood.com).
Next, drive along the coast with a stop at Bilbao and the gorgeous village of Cudillero before halting at Santiago de Compostela, the end of the famous pilgrimage trail. After a few days there cross the border into Portugal for a couple of days exploring the northern city of Porto, then drive along the valley of the Douro River, taking the N108 which winds along the northern bank of the river, then crossing the river to take up the journey to Pinhao on the N222. This is one of the most gaspingly gorgeous winegrowing areas you'll ever see, the home of port wines which are grown on steep, terraced slopes alongside the river. Stay for a couple of days in Pinhao and immerse yourself in this beautiful region where tradition still runs strong.
From here my next stop would be Pamplona, which is a bit of a gallop, and if you happen to be around for the Running of the Bulls please stick to the sidelines. From here drive along the southern flank of the Pyrenees then turn north to take the N260A, which takes you travels through the lovely mountain village of Sallent de Gallego, and you could well put down stumps for a couple of days to relish the cool mountain air.
Continue into France, stop at Lourdes and head for the riverside town of Puy-l'Eveque in the Midi-Pyrenees region. This is the Department of the Lot, my favourite part of France, a glorious region well furnished with medieval towns, silvery rivers, forest walks, limestone gorges and grey chateaux rising from a sea of vines, with truffles and foie gras among the local specialties.
If your ultimate destination is Bordeaux, you're within easy driving distance.
For accommodation, see Sawdays (sawdays.co.uk)✓. Regarding car hire, you might put yourself behind the wheel of a brand new vehicle with Renault Eurodrive (renaulteurodrive.com.au)✓.
